See our articles on staining and finishing wood for step-by-step instructions for processes that should take place before any glazing is performed. If your furniture is finished with shellac, don’t use glazes containing asphaltum, as they can sometimes be hard to remove. [3] X Research source
See our articles on staining and finishing wood for step-by-step instructions for processes that should take place before any glazing is performed. If your furniture is finished with shellac, don’t use glazes containing asphaltum, as they can sometimes be hard to remove. [3] X Research source
However, it’s not hard to fine-tune your glaze by mixing various commercial projects as well. For instance, to get a gorgeous dark chocolate-colored wood glaze, simply combine:[5] X Research source Four parts clear mixing glaze Two parts dark brown or mocha glaze One part dark grey or asphaltum glaze You can also combine clear mixing glaze (sometimes called “glaze base”) with ordinary paints to make your own custom shades. Finally, many oil-based paints can be used as glazes when mixed with a little thinner or penetrol. [6] X Research source
In addition, you’ll want to lay a heavy drop cloth beneath your work area to protect against accidental drips and spills.
One application brush (either foam or bristled is fine) One blending brush (soft-bristled; clean and dry) Pan or tray to hold the glaze Paper towels or cotton rags Steel wool (oil-based glazes) Nylon abrasive pad (water-based glazes)
In a pinch, you can always test the glaze on part of the project that’s not easily-visible (like a small area on a rear corner. )
Most glazes take a reasonably long time to start drying compared to other wood finishes — usually, you will have about 10 to 20 minutes, which is plenty of time to glaze and work reasonable-sized sections of wood. Still, you’ll want to keep this rough time limit in mind. If the glaze dries before you can work with it, you’ll need to use a little paint thinner to get it liquid again.
Leave a little extra glaze around any corners, cracks, embellishments, or “tight spaces” on your wood. Most glazing styles deliberately keep these areas darker to highlight the features of the wood. Be sure to place the dirty paper towels or rags someplace they won’t drip or get your surroundings dirty. Having a plastic garbage bag handy is a good idea.
Leave the glaze the thinnest at the center of flat surfaces. Leave slightly more around the edges. This gives a subtle “cameo” or “sunburst” effect. Let the glaze accumulate thickest around sharp corners, edges, cracks, and embellishments. This highlights these features by bringing out their contrast. Push the glaze away from the “high points” on emblems, embellishments, carvings, and so on to give them a warm “shine. "
Whether or not to use this “grain” effect depends on the project you’re working on and the impression you want to create with the finished product. For example, while a rough grain can look great on a rich wooden desk, you’ll probably want to keep your glaze smooth if you’re working over a white-painted chest of drawers.
As noted above, while individual glazes vary in their drying time, you’ll usually have about 10-20 minutes before the glaze starts to dry. [8] X Research source Try to remove the glaze before it dries — it’s a lot harder to get off afterward.
If you notice small drips or mistakes after your glaze dries, it’s usually possible to carefully scrape them off with a razor or craft knife.
The vast majority of finishes should work well with nearly all glazes. However, you’ll want to be extra-sure that you’ve given you glaze plenty of sealant if you intend to use a topcoat with a different base than your glaze (e. g. , if you’re using a water-based topcoat and you previously used an oil-based glaze. )
